INSTALLATION & OWNER'S GUIDE — THE TANK / THE MACHINE — PUBLIC DOCUMENT. NO PURCHASE REQUIRED.

THE MANUAL

READ IT BEFORE YOU BUY. HAND IT TO YOUR PLUMBER FOR A QUOTE.

This is the support. All of it. There is no phone number at the end. We put the whole manual out in the open so you know exactly what you're signing up for before a dollar leaves your pocket — and so your plumber can quote the job off this page, word for word.

READY? SEE THE TANKS

CONTENTS:READ FIRST 0. BEFORE YOU BEGIN 1. YOUR SYSTEM 2. WHAT'S IN THE BOX 3. TOOLS 4. PARTS TO BUY THE INSTALL — STEPS 1–11 THE OWNER'S GUIDE QUESTIONS

SECTION 00 — READ FIRST

SHUT THE WATER OFF AT THE STREET BEFORE YOU CUT ANYTHING.

Find your main shutoff at the street-level curb stop and turn it off completely before cutting into any pipe. Then open a faucet inside the house and confirm nothing comes out. If water is still flowing, the water is not off. Do not proceed until it is.

SECTION 0 — BEFORE YOU BEGIN

DO THE HOMEWORK. IT'S ONE PAGE.

COUNT YOUR BATHROOMS

These systems are sized for homes with up to 3 bathrooms — a household peak flow rated for 2 showers running at once plus normal household draw — a dishwasher, a running tap. That covers most houses in America. If your house has more than 3 bathrooms, or you're regularly running more than 2 simultaneous showers, this system may be undersized for you. Undersized filtration means water racing through the media faster than the media can work, and we're not selling you something that can't keep up. Congratulations on the big house. Go talk to AION WATER — as far as we can tell, the only other outfit doing filtration at this level, and they build custom systems for big homes and estates. They'll test your water, size the hardware to your flow rate, and answer the phone. Weird business model, but it takes all kinds.

KNOW YOUR PIPE DIAMETER

Before you buy a single fitting, figure out the diameter of your home's main water supply line. Most homes are plumbed with 3/4" pipe. Bigger homes are often on 1". Big places (5+ bedrooms) may be larger than that. If you're not sure, ask a plumber or whoever built the house.

Every fitting in this manual is described by type only — elbow, tee, valve, adapter — never by size. Buy every fitting in the diameter that matches your pipe. That's the whole trick. We don't know your house. You do.

COPPER VS. PEX

Whatever is inside your walls, you can use either copper or PEX for the exposed runs between components — as long as the diameter matches. Copper looks intentional. PEX looks like PEX. Both work.

Copper is easier than it used to be thanks to SharkBite push-to-connect fittings — brass fittings that grab copper or PEX with no soldering, no torch, no special tools. Push the pipe in and it locks. This manual is written for a SharkBite install.

DO YOU NEED A PLUMBER?

SYSTEM	PLUMBER	WHY
THE TANK	Recommended, not required	Non-backwashing. No drain line, no electrical, no controller. Bypass valves and inlet/outlet connections — standard plumbing skills.
THE MACHINE	Same answer	The conditioner tank is also non-backwashing. No drain, no electrical, no salt. It's THE TANK's install, twice.

Neither system backwashes. Neither needs a drain line or an outlet. If you can cut a pipe, push a fitting, and read the rest of this manual, you can do this in a weekend. If the word "bypass" scares you — or if you're asking yourself whether you need a plumber, because that usually means you do — get a quote from a local plumber before you buy. This manual is all any plumber worth his salt is going to need. (Yes, we know. No salt. The joke stays.)

SITE-SPECIFIC WARNING — DON'T GUESS

Finding the correct place to cut into your main water line is different for every home. Cut in the wrong spot and you can bypass entire fixtures — meaning some taps in your house will never see filtered water, even after a flawless install. If you are not certain where your main enters and where it feeds, ask a licensed plumber or your builder to point at the pipe. Do not guess.

DON'T FILTER THE HOSE BIBS

One more thing about the cut point: the system should sit before every fixture in the house, but after the hose bibs — the outdoor spigots. Your lawn does not need commercial-grade filtered water, and every gallon that goes through the garden hose is media life you paid for running into the flower bed. Have your plumber confirm the cut lands PRE-fixtures, POST-hose bibs. The grass won't know the difference. Your media will.

EXISTING LOOP? LUCKY YOU

Many homes — especially newer builds — have a pre-installed "loop": two pipes the builder ran out of the wall specifically for water treatment equipment. This guide assumes you're creating that access point from scratch. If you have a loop:

→Figure out which pipe is the INLET (water coming FROM the street) and which is the OUTLET (water going TO the house).
→Loops can run vertical (down from the ceiling, up from the floor) or horizontal (side to side along a wall). Doesn't matter — the bypass in Step 3 works either way; just orient it to match.
→Label both pipes with a permanent marker before you start. INLET. OUTLET. Once water is flowing you can't test by hand, and mistakes are a pain to unwind.
→Can't tell which is which? Turn the water on briefly with a faucet open somewhere in the house and feel which pipe goes live first. That's your inlet. Turn the water back off.

A WORD ON MAKING IT LOOK RIGHT

Plumbers are experts at making systems work. They are not always thinking about how the install will look in ten years. Before anyone cuts anything, have two conversations:

Wall access and repair. Getting to the main may mean cutting a hole in the wall. Drywall repair is a separate trade. Sometimes the smart move is two days: Day 1 — cut the wall, access the main, run the pipes out with a temporary bypass so the house has water, patch the wall. Day 2 — install the system once the wall is repaired and dry. Once tanks are standing in front of that wall, nobody is plastering behind them. Plan the patch before the cut.

Pipe routing. Ask for pipe runs that are tight to the wall, parallel, and level in visible spaces. Five minutes of planning gets you a system that looks designed instead of improvised. You paid for commercial-grade hardware. Let it look like it.

SECTION 1 — YOUR SYSTEM

KNOW WHAT YOU BOUGHT. OR WILL BUY.

Both systems use 10" × 54" Enpress Vortech™ pressure vessels — commercial-grade tanks with a vortex distribution plate that spins the water through the media bed every minute of every day. Designed for a peak flow of 2 simultaneous showers plus normal household draw — a dishwasher, a running tap. Every tank ships with its own bypass assembly, so any tank can be isolated for service without shutting down the house.

WHY THESE TANKS NEVER BACKWASH

Ordinary media tanks are downflow: water pounds the media to the bottom of the tank, packs it into a cake, then carves a path of least resistance straight through it. That's called channeling, and it's why those tanks need an upflow backwash every week — with a drain line, a controller, and an outlet to run it. Ours are upflow through a Vortech plate that vortexes the water constantly, so the media never cakes and the water never channels. No channeling means no backwashing. No backwashing means no drain, no electrical, no controller, no weekly ritual. The tank does the maintenance by existing.

THE TANK

$2,500 — SINGLE TANK WHOLE-HOUSE FILTER

One tank. Two chambers, two medias, zero mixing: BLACK IRISH 2.5X catalytic carbon down below, THE FLUX STAGE zinc-copper redox up top. Non-backwashing — no drain line, no electrical, no controller, no app. It stands there and works hard, like you.

THE MACHINE

$4,500 — TWO TANK FILTER + SALT-FREE CONDITIONER

Everything THE TANK is, plus a second identical-looking tank running salt-free NAC anti-scale conditioning media. No brine tank, no salt bags, no slimy showers, no regeneration for the life of the media (5–10 years). The conditioner tank has a manual upflow valve with its own bypass. Also non-backwashing. Also no electrical. Fair warning: Tank 2 feels almost empty. It's supposed to — the German crystallization media inside works by giving minerals space, not by volume (Section 2 explains).

ADD-ONS COVERED IN THIS MANUAL

THE BOUNCEROptional 4.5" × 10" pre-stage sediment filter. Works the door so THE TANK doesn't have to deal with sand, silt, and rust. Bracket, housing, and one cartridge included; $20 replacement cartridges every 6 months. If it's on your order, it gets its own steps below.

THE FLUSHRegeneration kit for THE TANK's carbon, every 6 months. Covered in the Owner's Guide section at the back.

THE UNDERSINKInstalls under the kitchen sink, on its own, with its own instructions. Not part of this install. Don't plumb it into the main line. Please.

That's the catalog. There is no UV chamber, no structuring device, no crystal that realigns your water's chakras. Water doesn't have chakras. It has contaminants, and we remove them.

SECTION 2 — WHAT'S IN THE BOX

OPEN IT. LABEL IT. PREP IT.

TANK IDENTIFICATION (THE MACHINE ONLY)

Your tanks ship labeled TANK 1 (filter) and TANK 2 (conditioner). They look identical from the outside. Telling them apart is easy anyway: pick them up. Tank 1 has roughly 10X the media of Tank 2 and lifts like it. Tank 2 feels almost empty.

If Tank 2 feels empty, it isn't. The conditioning media inside is a crystallization technology imported from a lab in Germany, and it is extremely expensive per liter. It doesn't work by volume — it works by giving the minerals space to crystallize as the water passes through. Packing that tank full would make it work worse, not better. Less is more. Do not email us asking if we forgot to fill your tank. We didn't. We measured.

Install them in the wrong order and your system will underperform and we will both be sad. Do not remove the labels until the install is complete and verified.

CONTROL VALVES — PREP BEFORE MOUNTING

Each tank ships with a valve head, a bypass assembly, and two elbows. Before any tank goes near a wall, for every tank:

1.Attach the bypass assembly to the valve head.
2.Press the two included elbows onto the bypass assembly ports (inlet and outlet).
3.Confirm the bypass assembly is in the SERVICE position — not bypass — before installing.

THE BOUNCER PREP (IF ORDERED)

Thread a brass male NPT nipple into the inlet port and the outlet port of the housing. Wrap all threads with plumber's tape (PTFE) first. Hand-tighten, then snug with a wrench. Do not gorilla it — the housing is plastic, your forearms are not.

SECTION 3 — TOOLS

TOOLS

TOOL	NOTES
Pipe cutter	For copper.
PEX cutter	For PEX. Obviously.
GrooveLock-style pliers × 2	One holds the fitting, one holds the nipple. You need both hands and both pliers for THE BOUNCER's connections (search: IRWIN VISE-GRIP GrooveLock 2078709).
Socket set with 3/8" socket	For the strut mounting hardware (3/8"-16 hex bolts) if you're wall-mounting THE BOUNCER.
Level	Tanks and strut go in level or they go in twice.
Drill with bits	Lag screws into studs.
Stud finder	Finds studs.
Permanent marker	For labeling INLET and OUTLET like we told you to.

SECTION 4 — PARTS TO BUY

THE HARDWARE STORE LIST

Buy everything below in your pipe diameter (see Section 0). Buy the full quantity listed and return what you don't use — a second trip to the hardware store mid-install is how weekends die. If your home has an existing loop, you'll need fewer fittings.

PART	QTY	WHAT IT'S FOR
SharkBite elbows	6–12	Turning corners.
SharkBite tees	2	The 3-valve bypass.
SharkBite couplings	4–6	Joining straight runs.
SharkBite-to-female-NPT threaded adapters	2–4	Connecting pipe to THE BOUNCER's nipples and anywhere else pipe meets threads.
Full-port ball valves (SharkBite)	3	Inlet isolation, outlet isolation, bypass bridge. Full-port. Don't cheap out and choke your own water pressure.
12" braided stainless flex hoses	tanks + 1	THE TANK: 2. THE MACHINE: 3. Get 18" only where 12" won't reach.
Reducing flex hoses (1" × 3/4")	as needed	Only if your pipe and valve sizes differ.
Brass nipples	2+	THE BOUNCER inlet/outlet (see Section 2).
PTFE plumber's tape	2–3 rolls	Every threaded connection. Every one.
Pipe (copper or PEX)	10–20 ft	The runs between everything.

THE BOUNCER STRUT HARDWARE (IF WALL-MOUNTING)

PART	QTY
Half-slotted strut channel, 2 ft (e.g., Superstrut — Home Depot SKU 308637577; stainless: Zoro Select 304)	1
3/8" nylon cone nuts (the gold galvanized ones)	2
3/8" zinc washers	2
3/8"-16 × 1" hex bolts	2
3" lag screws	4

A 2-foot strut is plenty for one housing. Mounting it on strut means you can slide it side to side to the perfect position instead of drilling new holes when you're off by an inch. You will be off by an inch.

THE INSTALL — STEPS 1 THROUGH 11

WATER OFF. FAUCET DRY. LABELS ON. COFFEE MADE. LET'S GO.

MOUNT THE BOUNCER HOUSING (IF ORDERED)

Do this before the tanks go in. Once two 54-inch tanks are standing in front of the wall, your drill isn't getting back there.

1.Find your studs. The housing is light empty and heavy full — it must anchor into studs, not drywall.
2.Cut the strut channel to length if needed.
3.Lag-screw the strut into at least two studs with the 3" lag screws. Check it with the level. Level. Not "close."
4.Drop the two cone nuts into the channel.
5.Mount the bracket to the cone nuts with the washers and the 3/8"-16 × 1" hex bolts. Snug — don't overtighten the nylon nuts.
6.Hang the housing on the bracket and confirm it's level.

Skipping THE BOUNCER? Skip to Step 2. THE TANK will handle your sediment; it'll just burn through its media faster doing a doorman's job.

CUT THE MAIN (SKIP IF YOU HAVE A LOOP)

1.Confirm — again — that the water is off at the street and a faucet runs dry.
2.Mark and cut out roughly a 12" section of the main supply line at your chosen access point.
3.Deburr both cut ends. SharkBite fittings seal against the pipe surface; a burred edge is a future leak with your name on it.
4.Fit an elbow to each cut end pointing out of the wall — one becomes your inlet stub, one your outlet stub.
5.Label them. INLET. OUTLET. Marker. Now.

BUILD THE 3-VALVE BYPASS

This is the heart of the install. Three full-port ball valves arranged so your house can run on street water any time the system needs service. Build it once, build it right.

We like a full system bypass because it gives you options for life: flip two valves and the whole house runs on plain tap water any time you want. Doing a FLUSH regen (about an hour, every 6 months) and somebody needs to run the dishwasher? Flip to tap. Nothing about a regen holds your house hostage. It's not mandatory — but it's the difference between owning the system and the system owning you.

1.On each stub (inlet and outlet), push on a 4–6" piece of pipe, then a SharkBite tee with the open port facing toward where the system will live.
2.Between the two tees, run pipe with a full-port ball valve in the middle. This is the bridge — the bypass itself.
3.Off the inlet tee's open port: an elbow, a short pipe, and a full-port ball valve. This is your inlet isolation valve.
4.Same off the outlet tee: elbow, pipe, valve. This is your outlet isolation valve.

Normal operation: both isolation valves OPEN, bridge CLOSED — water goes through the system. Service/bypass mode: both isolation valves CLOSED, bridge OPEN — house runs on unfiltered street water while you work. Your shower will survive. Barely.

The no-frills version: if all of this reads like more plumbing than you signed up for, you can literally just cut into the main, push a SharkBite fitting onto each cut end, and run stainless flex hoses straight to the system's elbows. That works. You give up the flip-to-tap convenience, but every tank still has its own bypass assembly, so you're never without water.

KNOW YOUR SEQUENCE

Water flows in this order. Tape this to the wall if it helps:

INLET→THE BOUNCERIF ORDERED→THE TANK→CONDITIONERTHE MACHINE ONLY→OUTLET

The conditioner tank always goes downstream of the filter tank. Not negotiable — the Owner's Guide explains why in extensive detail.

CONNECT THE BOUNCER (IF ORDERED)

1.From the inlet isolation valve, run pipe toward the housing.
2.Connect pipe to the housing's inlet nipple with a SharkBite-to-NPT threaded adapter and a 12" flex hose.
3.Do the same from the housing's outlet nipple toward THE TANK.
4.Use both pairs of pliers — one holds the fitting, one holds the nipple. This is the connection people leak. Don't be people.

CONNECT THE TANK(S)

1.Stand each tank in position, in labeled order, on a firm, level surface. Shim if needed. Check with the level.
2.Confirm each tank's bypass assembly is in SERVICE position with the two elbows pressed on (you did this in Section 2).
3.PTFE tape on every threaded connection. Hand-tight, then snug with a wrench.
4.Connect the incoming run to THE TANK's inlet elbow with a 12" braided flex hose.
5.THE TANK: run the outlet flex toward the outlet side. Done.
6.THE MACHINE: run TANK 1's outlet flex to TANK 2's (conditioner) inlet, then TANK 2's outlet flex toward the outlet side. Tank 1 first, Tank 2 second. The labels agree with us.

CLOSE THE LOOP

Continue the run from the last tank to the outlet isolation valve and connect it. That's the whole loop: street water in one side, filtered water out the other, bypass bridge in between. Stand back and admire it for exactly one minute, then keep going.

FINAL CHECK BEFORE WATER

Walk the whole line and verify, out loud if you have to:

Every SharkBite fitting fully seated to its depth mark
Every NPT thread taped with PTFE and wrench-snug
Every flex hose hand-tight plus a snug
Bypass bridge valve CLOSED
Inlet and outlet isolation valves OPEN
Tank 1's bypass assembly in SERVICE
THE MACHINE: Tank 2's bypass assembly in FULL BYPASS — it stays there through the soak and flush (Steps 10–11)
THE BOUNCER cap hand-tight, cartridge seated
Tanks standing level

RESTORE PRESSURE. SLOWLY.

Opening a street valve fast sends a pressure wave (water hammer) through everything you just built. Don't.

1.Open the curb stop a quarter turn. Wait 60–90 seconds.
2.Walk every connection. Look. Touch. Dry means dry.
3.No leaks after 2–3 minutes? Open to half. Wait another 60 seconds.
4.Open fully. Walk the line one more time.
5.Found a leak? Shut the water back off at the street and depressurize before you fix it. Never work a live fitting.

LET THE MEDIA SOAK

New carbon needs to wet out before it works. Only Tank 1 soaks. Tank 2 (THE MACHINE's conditioner) does not need a soak — and more importantly, it must be protected from what Tank 1 is about to shed.

THE MACHINE: TANK 2 GOES INTO FULL BYPASS. NOW.

Before you fill anything, put Tank 2's bypass assembly into FULL BYPASS — and leave it there through the entire soak and the flush in Step 11. Freshly soaked carbon sheds a storm of black fines, and you do not want a single one of them washing into Tank 2's conditioning media. Don't even bring Tank 2 online the next day — give Tank 1 some operating time first.

1.THE MACHINE only: confirm Tank 2 is in FULL BYPASS. Yes, we just said it. It's worth two mentions.
2.On Tank 1's bypass assembly, close the exit side and open the entry side, so the tank fills with no flow through it.
3.Fill the tank as much as you can. Using your ears is fine — the fill sound changes as the water rises. When it goes quiet and high, you're there.
4.Let it sit a minimum of 1 hour. Some people let it soak overnight. There is no such thing as too long — but there is such a thing as too short, and it's anything under an hour.

THE SHORTCUT: SOAK IT DURING THE INSTALL

Want the soak clock running while you're still turning wrenches? Start it early. During the install — before the valve goes on Tank 1 — take a garden hose and fill the tank with water right through the open top. Fair warning: a tank full of water is heavy, so only fill it as much as you can still lift and move into place. Let it soak at least an hour while you do the rest of the plumbing, or while you wait for the plumber to show up. By the time the last fitting is tight, the media's already wet — and you can skip the fill in this step and go straight to the flush. Same rules apply: an hour minimum, Tank 2 stays in FULL BYPASS.

THE COMMISSIONING FLUSH

After the soak, Tank 1 is loaded with carbon fines — harmless black dust that will absolutely stain your fixtures, and worse, foul Tank 2's conditioning media if you let it downstream. Flush it out before anything else sees that water.

1.THE MACHINE only: Tank 2 is still in FULL BYPASS. If it isn't, stop and fix that before you open anything.
2.Open the exit side of Tank 1, so water now flows through the tank.
3.Run a bathtub — wide open — for 10 to 20 minutes, or until the water runs totally clear, whichever is longer. It will be dusty and black for a while. That's the fines leaving. Let them.
4.When it runs clear, you're live. THE MACHINE: leave Tank 2 in bypass for a day of normal Tank 1 operation, then flip Tank 2 to SERVICE and go live for real.

The first water out will look like weak coffee, then strong coffee, then weak coffee again. That's the fines. They're fine for the drain. They are not fine for your white porcelain — so give the tub a rinse after.

DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP. AND DO NOT SKIP THE BYPASS.

The flush is the single most-skipped step and the single most-regretted skip. And running the flush with Tank 2 in SERVICE is the single most expensive way to skip reading.

YOU'RE DONE.

Open a tap. That's commercial-grade filtered water, installed by you (or your plumber, who is now free to go). No onboarding call. No account manager named Chad. Take a photo of the install — partly for your records, mostly because you earned it.

PART TWO — LIVING WITH IT

THE OWNER'S GUIDE

THE CONDITIONER TANK (THE MACHINE ONLY)

The second tank runs salt-free NAC anti-scale media. Three things to know:

It conditions, it doesn't soften. Your water stays technically "hard" on paper — the minerals are still in there — but they're converted so they can't form scale on your pipes, water heater, or dishwasher. No salt, no slime, no 40-pound bags.

The first 4–6 weeks are descale season. The media doesn't just prevent new scale — it starts releasing old scale that's been squatting in your plumbing for years. You may notice flakes or cloudiness at some taps early on. That's the system evicting decade-old tenants. It passes.

NEVER LET FLUSH REAGENT REACH IT.

The regeneration reagent that refreshes THE TANK's carbon destroys salt-free conditioning media. That's roughly a $2,000 mistake that takes about ten careless seconds. The regen procedure below exists to prevent exactly this. Follow it.

Beyond that: nothing. No regeneration, no salt, no service for the life of the media — 5 to 10 years. Fuhgettaboutit. Literally.

THE FLUSH — REGENERATION, EVERY 6 MONTHS

About an hour of work twice a year restores THE TANK to day-one performance. Or do nothing and swap the media in 3–5 years. Your call. We're not going to check. If you're flushing:

1.Put the house on bypass: close both isolation valves, open the bridge. The house now runs on regular municipal water — dishwasher, laundry, showers, all of it, business as usual. This is exactly why we told you to build the full system bypass.
2.THE MACHINE only: put Tank 2 (the conditioner) into FULL BYPASS — and leave it there through the entire regen, including the flush at the end. Nothing that comes out of Tank 1 during a regen is allowed anywhere near Tank 2: not the reagent (re-read the $2,000 warning above — we'll wait) and not the carbon fines the regen shakes loose.
3.Introduce the reagent through THE TANK's inlet exactly as the kit instructions describe. The kit has its own step-by-step. It agrees with this manual. Read both anyway.
4.Let it work per the kit timing.
5.Bring the system back online (isolation valves open, bridge closed — Tank 2 still in FULL BYPASS) and flush: run a bathtub wide open for 10–20 minutes, or until the water runs totally clear and odor-free, whichever is longer. It'll run dusty and black for a bit. That's the point.
6.THE MACHINE only: leave Tank 2 in bypass for the rest of the day while Tank 1 settles in, then flip it back to SERVICE. Done for six months.

If some reagent reaches your home plumbing anyway: not an emergency. Run the cold taps for 15–20 minutes and carry on with your life.

Need a kit? The parts counter has them — $99 each, or three for $250 so you can skip thinking about it for 18 months.

THE BOUNCER — CARTRIDGE SWAPS, EVERY 6 MONTHS

Same 6-month rhythm as THE FLUSH — do them in the same afternoon and you only bypass the house once. Close the isolation valves, open the bridge, relieve pressure at a tap, unscrew the housing (this is what the second pair of pliers is for), swap the $20 cartridge, check the O-ring, hand-tighten the cap, restore water per Step 9. Ten minutes, tops.

Replacement cartridges are $20 at the parts counter. Buy two, do a year.

AIR IN THE LINES

After any bypass switching, taps may sputter for a few days. Run several taps for 5–10 minutes to purge. If sputtering persists past a week, something else is going on — call a plumber.

TROUBLESHOOTING

SYMPTOM	CHECK, IN ORDER
Low water pressure	Bridge valve closed? Both isolation valves fully open? Every tank bypass in SERVICE? Flex hose kinked or obstructed? BOUNCER cartridge seated properly (a mis-seated cartridge chokes flow)?
SharkBite fitting leaking	Depressurize at the street first. Check the pipe was inserted to the depth mark. Pull the fitting, inspect the pipe end for burrs or scratches, re-cut clean if needed, reseat.
Discolored water	Normal for the first minutes after commissioning or a FLUSH — carbon fines. If it persists, repeat the flush procedure until clear.
Slimy shower feel	Not possible. You bought the salt-free one. Check that you're in the right house.

APPENDIX — QUESTIONS THE MANUAL WILL ANSWER EXACTLY ONCE

QUESTIONS

Q.WHAT IF I GET STUCK?

A.Read the relevant step again. Every answer to every support call we've ever imagined is in these pages. That's why the filter costs what it costs.

Q.CAN I CALL SOMEBODY?

A.You can call a plumber near you. That's the business model. We spent the phone-guy money on better filter media.

Q.CAN I EMAIL SOMEBODY?

A.readthemanual@nomoredirtywater.com. Read the address twice. If the answer to your question is in this manual — the one you are currently reading — you will not get a response. That's not rudeness, that's the deal that made the tank affordable.

Q.WHAT'S MY PEAK FLOW?

A.The system is rated for a peak flow of 2 showers running at once plus normal household draw — a dishwasher, a running tap. If your house regularly runs more than 2 simultaneous showers, this system may be undersized. For homes that big, go see AION WATER (aionwater.co) — the only other company we'd trust with a tank, and they custom-build for large homes and estates.

Q.DO THE TANKS NEED POWER?

A.No. No electrical, no drain line, no controller, no Wi-Fi, no firmware updates at 2 a.m. The tanks contain media and resolve. That's it.

Q.HOW LONG DOES THE MEDIA LAST?

A.THE TANK's carbon: 3–5 years on its own, or keep it at day-one performance with a $99 FLUSH kit every 6 months. The conditioner media in THE MACHINE: 5–10 years, zero maintenance.

Q.MY TOWN'S WATER REPORT LOOKS FINE. DID I WASTE MY MONEY?

A.Fine today. Water contamination is a moving target — new stuff shows up in supplies that tested clean the year before. You bought the thing that's standing there working either way.

DIRTY WATER CO — EST. THE CHARLES RIVER, PERFECTED IN TEXAS.

THIS MANUAL IS THE CUSTOMER SERVICE.
YOU JUST FINISHED THE SUPPORT CALL.

You've now read more about your future water filter than most people read about their mortgage. If it still looks doable — it is. If it looks like a plumber's afternoon — send him this page.

SOMETHING GENUINELY NOT IN HERE? READTHEMANUAL@NOMOREDIRTYWATER.COM. IF IT IS IN HERE, YOU KNOW WHAT HAPPENS. NOTHING.

READY? SEE THE TANKS NEED PARTS?BACK TO THE SHOP

READ IT AGAIN.